J Smith escapes the crazy streets to find a modern-day oasis with delicious food.
The Bistro Ramada Hotel, Bur Dubai
Far away from the hustle and bustle of one of Dubai's busiest roundabouts, an oasis of calm can be found in The Bistro, in the lobby of the Ramada Hotel, Bur Dubai.
Tall bamboo and dim lighting set an ambient scene for diners in The Bistro, which is incredibly calm considering the horribly busy junction outside. Table-staff are on-hand to greet visitors; and while they are extremely attentive, it's not too much to become annoying.
Candlelight, softly cushioned bamboo-print chairs and neutral shades of brown complement the relaxed atmosphere, which is perfect for a romantic meal for two, dinner with friends or family or even for a business dinner.
Buzz
A chef's hatch is just visible behind the main seating area, which enlivens the atmosphere a little, but it isn't noisy or noticeable if you're averse to the buzz of a busy kitchen.
A pianist playing can also be heard from the nearby Cascade restaurant in the main part of the lobby, performing serenade classics such as Moon River, which definitely adds a touch of class to the almost-regal scene.
The menu is as surprising as the contrast from outside to inside, with soups, starters, light bites, main courses and a wide selection of desserts. It was almost too much to choose from and I spent a long time pondering on my selection. Beverages are also varied, with a wide selection of freshly-squeezed juices on order. If you're trying to be healthy before digging in to the main course, try a blend of a couple of the juices on offer – carrot and apple or orange juice is particularly refreshing (if a little filling).
Deliciously warm toasted half-loaves of bread greet you before the first course, served with olive tapenade and herbed butter.
Dash of French
Dishes are Mediterranean-inspired, with a dash of French, and would definitely appeal to fine-dining fans, or those out to impress guests. Starters include Arabic mezze, salmon carpaccio, marinated asparagus and a selection of soups, while main courses range from pan-fried hammour, beef or lamb choices, vegetarian dishes or curry — the British favourite.
The table service was prompt and the requests I made were treated amiably, even down to whether you'd like chilled or room-temperature drinking water.
I started with Tartar de Saumon Fume — herbed, hickory-smoked salmon with marinated cucumber and mint gravy. It was presented so well that it was almost a shame to destroy its cylindrical shape by eating it.
Tournados de Beouf — pan-fried tenderloin — followed very promptly served with melted goat's cheese, grilled Mediterranean vegetables and gravy. The beef melted in my mouth, in almost the same way as the tangy grilled goat's cheese topping.
Have no fear if you're fussy with your meat — the beef I had as a main course was cooked to a perfect medium, as requested.
Mini morsels
Desserts include the chef's selection of the day, which for me was a mini blackcurrant cheesecake, praline mousse and crème caramel, served with a raspberry coulis, single cream and chocolate sauce. If you can't decide what to have — just have a bit of everything!
Even if you don't have a sweet tooth, go ahead and indulge yourself with the mini morsels.
Each and every dish I ordered was presented exquisitely, served on large white square plates with heavy silver cutlery, adding an air of the modern to a classical evening.
If you feel like being treated like royalty and tucking into fine-dining in ambient surroundings, you'd be a fool not to make a stop here before tackling the Bur Dubai roads.
Checklist
- Getting there: The Ramada on Mankhool Street, Dubai, just before the big roundabout.
- Open: 6pm to midnight, seven days a week.
- Seating: 114.
- Dress code: Smart casual.
- Recommended: Tournedos de Boeuf — pan-fried beef tenderloin with melted goat's cheese and grilled Mediteranean vegetables.
- Rating: 5/5
