Inside Access Armenia: How Sharjah’s ruler helped save an ancient monastery and why it’s a perfect visa-free summer escape for UAE residents

It isn't every day that you visit a centuries-old Christian monastery and discover that one of the people responsible for preserving it was a ruler from the UAE.

Yet that's exactly the story waiting to be uncovered at Haghartsin Monastery, one of Armenia's most treasured religious and cultural landmarks, tucked away in the lush mountains of Dilijan National Park.

In the latest edition of our Inside Access series with Manjusha Radhakrishnan, I take you inside this remarkable monastery, uncovering the stories, symbols and traditions that many visitors miss—from centuries-old rituals and intricately carved khachkars to the extraordinary role played by His Highness Sheikh Dr. Sultan bin Mohammed Al Qasimi, Supreme Council Member and Ruler of Sharjah, in helping preserve one of Armenia's most treasured landmarks.

So the folklore goes thus: Long before it became a favourite stop on Armenia's tourism trail, the medieval monastery had fallen into disrepair. Then, during a visit to Armenia in 2005, His Highness Sheikh Dr. Sultan bin Mohammed Al Qasimi, Ruler of Sharjah, was so struck by its historical and architectural significance that he offered to support its restoration. The conservation project, carried out between 2008 and 2013, carefully revived the complex while preserving its centuries-old character. He poured Dh1.7 million dollars into the restoration.

Knowing that story changed the way I looked at Haghartsin before I had even arrived.

I recently travelled to Armenia to explore the country's rich history, spectacular landscapes and vibrant food culture. While the itinerary promised ancient monasteries, dramatic scenery and warm hospitality, this stop felt different.

Haghartsin wasn't simply another historic landmark. It carried a remarkable story of cultural preservation that linked Armenia and the UAE in a way I hadn't expected.

The drive from Yerevan takes around two hours, but it's hardly a journey you want to rush.

Leaving the capital behind, the landscape gradually softens into rolling hills, thick forests and charming villages. Roadside stalls tempt passing motorists with jars of mountain honey, warm lavash fresh from the oven and creamy local cheese. Every few kilometres, another sweeping mountain view makes you want to reach for your camera.

By the time we entered Dilijan National Park, it was easy to understand why this region is often described as Armenia's green heart.

Then, almost hidden among the trees, Haghartsin Monastery revealed itself.

Its honey-coloured stone walls and graceful domes seemed to rise naturally from the forest floor, blending effortlessly into the surrounding mountains, as though they had always belonged there.

Founded between the 10th and 13th centuries, Haghartsin flourished as one of medieval Armenia's leading religious, scientific and cultural centres. The monastery complex includes three churches, with the oldest—St. Gregory—dating back to the 10th century. For generations, monks studied here, manuscripts were copied and preserved, and pilgrims travelled through these mountains seeking spiritual refuge.

As part of our visit, we were given a guided tour that revealed details many visitors would probably walk past without noticing.

One of the first things our guide pointed out were the beautifully carved khachkars, Armenia's distinctive stone crosses. Found across the country, these intricately carved monuments are unique to Armenian heritage and often commemorate important events, mark sacred spaces or serve as enduring expressions of faith. Around Haghartsin, they stand quietly among the trees, weathered by centuries yet remarkably resilient.

Then came one of the most memorable moments of the tour.

Before entering one of the churches, our guide Armig asked me to stop.

The doorway looked unusually low.

"There is a reason," she smiled. Every person who enters must bow their head.

It wasn't a quirk of medieval construction. The entrance was intentionally designed so that everyone—whether a king, a priest or a tourist—steps inside with humility. It was such a simple architectural detail, yet one that stayed with me long after I left.

As we stepped inside, another quiet ritual unfolded before us.

The monastery was filled with worshippers rather than tourists. It was a Sunday when I visited, and men, women and families moved silently through the ancient stone church, pausing to light slender yellow beeswax candles before offering a prayer. There were no raised voices or hurried footsteps. Just the gentle glow of candlelight, the faint scent of incense and an overwhelming sense of calm.

Our guide shared another local tradition.

After lighting a candle and saying your prayer, you're not meant to turn back as you leave. Instead, you walk forward, placing your hopes and prayers.

Whether you're deeply religious, spiritual or simply curious about local customs, it was one of those travel moments that quietly stays with you.

You're no longer admiring an old building. You're witnessing a living place of worship where traditions continue much as they have for centuries.

Walking through the monastery, it became easier to understand why Sheikh Dr. Sultan bin Mohammed Al Qasimi chose to support its restoration. This wasn't simply about preserving beautiful architecture. It was about protecting a place that continues to hold meaning for the people who come here to pray, reflect and celebrate their faith.

The restoration itself was meticulous. The project strengthened the monastery's foundations, repaired damaged structures, restored walls and floors, upgraded drainage and utilities, and improved the access road—all while respecting the integrity of the original medieval complex.

Rather than transforming Haghartsin, the restoration ensured it could continue telling its story for generations to come.

Perhaps that's what makes its modern history so compelling.

At a time when so many conversations around culture and religion are framed through difference, Haghartsin quietly tells another story. Here is an example of a Muslim ruler helping preserve one of Armenia's most significant Christian monuments—not as a political statement, but as an act of respect for history, culture and shared human heritage.

Before leaving, we wandered down to the cosy bakery-café below the monastery.

The aroma of freshly baked bread drifted through the air as local women prepared warm lavash by hand. I settled down with a slice of traditional gata, fresh local cheese and a cup of strong Armenian coffee while looking back at the monastery framed by forests and mountains.

It struck me that Haghartsin isn't memorable simply because it is old or beautiful.

It stays with you because of the stories it quietly holds. The story of medieval monks and master craftsmen. The story of families who still gather here every Sunday to light candles and pray.

And the story of an unexpected connection between Armenia and the UAE that helped preserve one of the country's greatest treasures.

Sometimes, the most memorable journeys aren't about discovering another destination.

They're about discovering a story you never expected to find.

At a glance

Location: Dilijan National Park, around 105km (about a two-hour drive) from Yerevan.

Founded: Between the 10th and 13th centuries.

Complex: Three churches, including St. Gregory, believed to date back to the 10th century.

Known for: Medieval architecture, peaceful forest surroundings and Armenia's distinctive khachkars (carved stone crosses).

UAE connection: Restored following the patronage of His Highness Sheikh Dr. Sultan bin Mohammed Al Qasimi, Ruler of Sharjah, after his visit in 2005.

Look out for: The deliberately low church doorway that encourages every visitor to bow before entering.

Don't miss: The bakery-café below the monastery for traditional gata, Armenian coffee, fresh lavash, local cheese and the chance to watch local women baking bread.

UAE residents' travel checklist

• Flight time: Around 3–3.5 hours from Dubai to Yerevan.

• Visa: Eligible UAE residents can currently visit Armenia visa-free, subject to passport nationality and residency requirements. Check the latest rules before travelling and carry your physical Emirates ID. Visa-free waiver runs until July 2027.

• Drive: Haghartsin is about a two-hour drive from Yerevan. Leave early to avoid weekend traffic.

• Best footwear: Comfortable walking shoes are essential for uneven stone paths and medieval steps.

• Dress respectfully: Haghartsin remains an active place of worship, so modest clothing is recommended.

• Pack a layer: Dilijan's mountain climate is noticeably cooler than Dubai, even in summer.

• Allow time: Set aside at least two hours to explore the monastery, wander the grounds, light a candle if you wish and soak up the peaceful surroundings.

• Coffee stop: Visit the bakery-café before leaving for freshly baked gata, Armenian coffee, warm lavash and locally made cheese.